[Chicago-talk] LAN/Phone wiring help needed
hwigoda at mindspring.com
Tue May 13 12:52:26 PDT 2008
btw, graybar has offices everywhere.
On May 13, 2008, at 2:40 PM, Alexander Danel wrote:
> I can tell you where to go for tools and parts:
> Graybar Electric Co
> 539 W 14th Place
> Chicago, IL 60607
> (312) 491-1123
> They specialize in telephone and Ethernet cabling, tools, and
> supplies. You
> can ask questions, too.
> A high quality punch-down tool costs about $70 to $100, and is a
> investment. Buy yourself a 1,000 ft roll of cat-6, 4-pair cable;
> you will never use even half the roll, it is none-the-less cheapest
> to buy
> the big roll. The actual punch-down blocks, etc, are cheap. I
> attached a
> wooden board to the masonry wall, and then attached the blocks to
> the board.
> You will also want a good quality staple gun, and a selection of
> The punch-down tool should have a reversible tip; where one option
> has a
> knife blade, and the other option has no blade. (There are also two
> of tips available, older style versus newer style -- you will need
> to choose
> one style or the other.) You will be flipping the tip between blade
> no-blade as you work. The no-blade option lets you punch down a
> wire that
> then continues to the next position. A block has 25 positions.
> you might have each incoming wire span 6 positions; so a block
> handles four
> wires (i.e. two pairs of wires.) If you are just connecting one or
> pairs, you would use a single block, if you have three or four pairs
> might consider two blocks. Bring the first wire to the top most
> letting the wire get loosely gripped by the pincers, then pull
> straight down
> and let it get gripped by the pincers at the next five positions
> Using the non-cutting side, punch down the first five positions,
> then flip
> the tip so you have the knife edge and punch down, this final act
> cuts the
> wire. (A common error here is to put the knife side up, cutting the
> before it enters the pincers, instead of as it exits.) Then take
> the next
> wire (the matching wire of the pair) and repeat, spanning the next six
> positions down. Etc.
> It might be traditional that incoming signal goes at the right side
> of the
> block, and outgoing lines to your house go out the left side; or
> maybe it's
> the other way -- ask the guys at Graybar what the tradition is.
> every position consists of a horizontal row having four pincers in
> the row.
> These four are arranged as a pair of pairs, with the left two having
> continuity, the right two having continuity, but no continuity
> between the
> pairs. You connect your incoming/outgoing wires to the pincers at the
> extreme right/left, then use a "bridge clip" to short the pairs
> The idea is that you have the option of not using a bridge clip, in
> case you would use wires punched down onto the inner pincers, and
> would have the option of carrying the signal to some different
> But you won't be doing that; just use the bridge clips to connect
> across, right pair with adjacent left pair. The bridge clips
> envelop the
> inner pincers, shorting them together.
> Don't forget to buy the bridge clips.
> Alexander Danel
> Chicago-talk mailing list
> Chicago-talk at pm.org
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