From nixternal at kubuntu.org  Wed May  7 21:42:49 2008
From: nixternal at kubuntu.org (Richard A. Johnson)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 23:42:49 -0500
Subject: [Chicago-talk] KDE Bindings for Perl
Message-ID: <200805072342.49469.nixternal@kubuntu.org>

Hey there everyone!

I received an email from one of the Perl'ites in Chicago after Flourish 
concerning working on the existing Perl bindings for KDE 4 and possibly Qt 4. I 
somehow misplaced that email so I am hoping it was one of you, which I am more 
than positive it was. I am the one who gave the talk on KDE 4 at Flourish and I 
believe Clyde Forrester is the one who directed us to contact. Thanks!

-- 
Richard A. Johnson
nixternal at kubuntu.org
GPG Key: 0x2E2C0124
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From jason at froebe.net  Thu May  8 07:41:03 2008
From: jason at froebe.net (Jason L. Froebe)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 07:41:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Chicago-talk] KDE Bindings for Perl
Message-ID: <280702.74793.qm@web807.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It wasn't me but I think it is a great idea :)  The current Perl/Qt bindings are well, not exactly complete.  
 
Jason L. Froebe

WebBlog http://jfroebe.livejournal.com
Tech log http://www.froebe.net/blog
Froebe Fibers http://www.froebe-fibers.com


The opinions expressed within are the sole rantings of a raving lunatic and in no way reflect the rantings, fits, tantrums, errors, corrections, allocutions, or aimless thoughts of Sybase or its employees or of TeamSybase or ISUG. Any resemblence to reasonable thought, or any official or published opinion of Sybase, TeamSybase or ISUG is merely coincidental, and should be totally ignored.


----- Original Message ----
From: Richard A. Johnson <nixternal at kubuntu.org>
To: Chicago.pm chatter <chicago-talk at pm.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 7, 2008 11:42:49 PM
Subject: [Chicago-talk] KDE Bindings for Perl

Hey there everyone!

I received an email from one of the Perl'ites in Chicago after Flourish 
concerning working on the existing Perl bindings for KDE 4 and possibly Qt 4. I 
somehow misplaced that email so I am hoping it was one of you, which I am more 
than positive it was. I am the one who gave the talk on KDE 4 at Flourish and I 
believe Clyde Forrester is the one who directed us to contact. Thanks!

-- 
Richard A. Johnson
nixternal at kubuntu.org
GPG Key: 0x2E2C0124




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From me at heyjay.com  Sun May 11 05:43:57 2008
From: me at heyjay.com (Jay Strauss)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 07:43:57 -0500
Subject: [Chicago-talk] LAN/Phone wiring help needed
Message-ID: <aabc51b60805110543o487751c1p432ac2e27b64bfda@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I apologize for double posting, and posting to possibly the wrong
list, but I figured someone at these could give me a referral.

Can anyone recommend someone to re-connect all my phone wires
(punch-down), and put in 2 network jacks?  <contradiction> Ideally
someone good and inexpensive </contradiction>.

I ripped out the nest upon nest of grerry-rigged phone wires in my
house (basement) where the entire phone service distribution/splicing
occurred.  It seemed that there were 3-4 separate installations from
previous owners of my home, where one installer patched into the
previous install.

I was trying to clean up all the wires and make room for getting
Comcast's voice/data/video service.  But I've messed something up and
don't have tons of time for working on it.  Some phones work, some
don't, weird clicking, intermittent outages.  I've probably got a
short or something.

I'm up in Lincolnshire.

Thanks
Jay

From shawn.c.carroll at gmail.com  Tue May 13 08:17:07 2008
From: shawn.c.carroll at gmail.com (Shawn Carroll)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 10:17:07 -0500
Subject: [Chicago-talk] Perl lib to mimic unix File cmd
Message-ID: <c114984c0805130817i73403f2fld33d72ca4d127341@mail.gmail.com>

Is there a lib in CPAN to mimic UNIX's file command?

-- 
shawn.c.carroll at gmail.com
Perl Programmer
Soccer Referee

From mongers at bsod.net  Tue May 13 08:20:10 2008
From: mongers at bsod.net (Pete Krawczyk)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 10:20:10 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Chicago-talk] Perl lib to mimic unix File cmd
In-Reply-To: <c114984c0805130817i73403f2fld33d72ca4d127341@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c114984c0805130817i73403f2fld33d72ca4d127341@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0805131019400.22579@steward.bsod.net>

Subject: Perl lib to mimic unix File cmd
From: Shawn Carroll <shawn.c.carroll at gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 10:17:07 -0500

}Is there a lib in CPAN to mimic UNIX's file command?

File::MMagic

http://search.cpan.org/dist/File-MMagic/

-Pete K
-- 
Pete Krawczyk
    Chicago Perl Mongers
    mongers at bsod dot net

From frag at ripco.com  Tue May 13 09:13:42 2008
From: frag at ripco.com (Mike Fragassi)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:13:42 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Chicago-talk] Is anyone interested in trying their hand at a
	lightning talk?
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.4.61.0805131048570.29151@shell3>


The next downtown Perl Mongers meeting is in 2 weeks, and this is the 
last meeting before YAPC is held in town in June.  As I suggested last 
month, this would be a great time for anyone who is interested in giving 
a lightning talk at YAPC to come on down and practice it in advance.

The deadline for submitting a lightning talk for YAPC is still open (in 
fact, I don't think the actual deadline has been set yet), so it's still 
possible to give a talk there.

But even if you're not keen on talking at YAPC, giving a lightning talk 
is a great way to get your feet wet when it comes to giving 
presentations.  If you're not familiar with lightning talks, this page 
gives an explanation, along with a great list of suggestions for topics:

   http://perl.plover.com/lightning-talks.html

So, is anyone interested?

-- Mike F.

From danel at speakeasy.net  Tue May 13 12:40:40 2008
From: danel at speakeasy.net (Alexander Danel)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:40:40 -0500
Subject: [Chicago-talk] LAN/Phone wiring help needed
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1210532407.4663.chicago-talk@pm.org>
Message-ID: <012801c8b531$3a4674a0$0d00a8c0@dsmsik7n2d2>

I can tell you where to go for tools and parts:

	Graybar Electric Co
	539 W 14th Place
	Chicago, IL  60607
	(312) 491-1123

They specialize in telephone and Ethernet cabling, tools, and supplies.  You
can ask questions, too.

A high quality punch-down tool costs about $70 to $100, and is a worthwhile
investment.  Buy yourself a 1,000 ft roll of cat-6, 4-pair cable; although
you will never use even half the roll, it is none-the-less cheapest to buy
the big roll.  The actual punch-down blocks, etc, are cheap.  I attached a
wooden board to the masonry wall, and then attached the blocks to the board.

You will also want a good quality staple gun, and a selection of staples.

The punch-down tool should have a reversible tip; where one option has a
knife blade, and the other option has no blade.  (There are also two types
of tips available, older style versus newer style -- you will need to choose
one style or the other.)  You will be flipping the tip between blade versus
no-blade as you work.  The no-blade option lets you punch down a wire that
then continues to the next position.  A block has 25 positions.  Typically,
you might have each incoming wire span 6 positions; so a block handles four
wires (i.e. two pairs of wires.)  If you are just connecting one or two
pairs, you would use a single block, if you have three or four pairs you
might consider two blocks.  Bring the first wire to the top most position,
letting the wire get loosely gripped by the pincers, then pull straight down
and let it get gripped by the pincers at the next five positions below.
Using the non-cutting side, punch down the first five positions, then flip
the tip so you have the knife edge and punch down, this final act cuts the
wire.  (A common error here is to put the knife side up, cutting the wire
before it enters the pincers, instead of as it exits.)  Then take the next
wire (the matching wire of the pair) and repeat, spanning the next six
positions down.  Etc.

It might be traditional that incoming signal goes at the right side of the
block, and outgoing lines to your house go out the left side; or maybe it's
the other way -- ask the guys at Graybar what the tradition is.  Anyway,
every position consists of a horizontal row having four pincers in the row.
These four are arranged as a pair of pairs, with the left two having
continuity, the right two having continuity, but no continuity between the
pairs.  You connect your incoming/outgoing wires to the pincers at the
extreme right/left, then use a "bridge clip" to short the pairs together.
The idea is that you have the option of not using a bridge clip, in which
case you would use wires punched down onto the inner pincers, and thusly
would have the option of carrying the signal to some different position.
But you won't be doing that; just use the bridge clips to connect straight
across, right pair with adjacent left pair.  The bridge clips envelop the
inner pincers, shorting them together.

Don't forget to buy the bridge clips.

Alexander Danel



From hwigoda at mindspring.com  Tue May 13 12:52:26 2008
From: hwigoda at mindspring.com (Hal Wigoda)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:52:26 -0500
Subject: [Chicago-talk] LAN/Phone wiring help needed
In-Reply-To: <012801c8b531$3a4674a0$0d00a8c0@dsmsik7n2d2>
References: <012801c8b531$3a4674a0$0d00a8c0@dsmsik7n2d2>
Message-ID: <9D6CA27E-503E-49F1-834C-3D45F5C3F9B7@mindspring.com>

btw, graybar has offices everywhere.


On May 13, 2008, at 2:40 PM, Alexander Danel wrote:

> I can tell you where to go for tools and parts:
>
> 	Graybar Electric Co
> 	539 W 14th Place
> 	Chicago, IL  60607
> 	(312) 491-1123
>
> They specialize in telephone and Ethernet cabling, tools, and  
> supplies.  You
> can ask questions, too.
>
> A high quality punch-down tool costs about $70 to $100, and is a  
> worthwhile
> investment.  Buy yourself a 1,000 ft roll of cat-6, 4-pair cable;  
> although
> you will never use even half the roll, it is none-the-less cheapest  
> to buy
> the big roll.  The actual punch-down blocks, etc, are cheap.  I  
> attached a
> wooden board to the masonry wall, and then attached the blocks to  
> the board.
>
> You will also want a good quality staple gun, and a selection of  
> staples.
>
> The punch-down tool should have a reversible tip; where one option  
> has a
> knife blade, and the other option has no blade.  (There are also two  
> types
> of tips available, older style versus newer style -- you will need  
> to choose
> one style or the other.)  You will be flipping the tip between blade  
> versus
> no-blade as you work.  The no-blade option lets you punch down a  
> wire that
> then continues to the next position.  A block has 25 positions.   
> Typically,
> you might have each incoming wire span 6 positions; so a block  
> handles four
> wires (i.e. two pairs of wires.)  If you are just connecting one or  
> two
> pairs, you would use a single block, if you have three or four pairs  
> you
> might consider two blocks.  Bring the first wire to the top most  
> position,
> letting the wire get loosely gripped by the pincers, then pull  
> straight down
> and let it get gripped by the pincers at the next five positions  
> below.
> Using the non-cutting side, punch down the first five positions,  
> then flip
> the tip so you have the knife edge and punch down, this final act  
> cuts the
> wire.  (A common error here is to put the knife side up, cutting the  
> wire
> before it enters the pincers, instead of as it exits.)  Then take  
> the next
> wire (the matching wire of the pair) and repeat, spanning the next six
> positions down.  Etc.
>
> It might be traditional that incoming signal goes at the right side  
> of the
> block, and outgoing lines to your house go out the left side; or  
> maybe it's
> the other way -- ask the guys at Graybar what the tradition is.   
> Anyway,
> every position consists of a horizontal row having four pincers in  
> the row.
> These four are arranged as a pair of pairs, with the left two having
> continuity, the right two having continuity, but no continuity  
> between the
> pairs.  You connect your incoming/outgoing wires to the pincers at the
> extreme right/left, then use a "bridge clip" to short the pairs  
> together.
> The idea is that you have the option of not using a bridge clip, in  
> which
> case you would use wires punched down onto the inner pincers, and  
> thusly
> would have the option of carrying the signal to some different  
> position.
> But you won't be doing that; just use the bridge clips to connect  
> straight
> across, right pair with adjacent left pair.  The bridge clips  
> envelop the
> inner pincers, shorting them together.
>
> Don't forget to buy the bridge clips.
>
> Alexander Danel
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Chicago-talk mailing list
> Chicago-talk at pm.org
> http://mail.pm.org/mailman/listinfo/chicago-talk


From me at heyjay.com  Tue May 13 15:55:14 2008
From: me at heyjay.com (Jay Strauss)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 17:55:14 -0500
Subject: [Chicago-talk] LAN/Phone wiring help needed
In-Reply-To: <012801c8b531$3a4674a0$0d00a8c0@dsmsik7n2d2>
References: <mailman.5.1210532407.4663.chicago-talk@pm.org>
	<012801c8b531$3a4674a0$0d00a8c0@dsmsik7n2d2>
Message-ID: <aabc51b60805131555q32731c10k9bae6fd1b28e6ae2@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Thanks for all the details.  Much appreciated.

Thanks
Jay

On Tue, May 13, 2008 at 2:40 PM, Alexander Danel <danel at speakeasy.net> wrote:
> I can tell you where to go for tools and parts:
>
>        Graybar Electric Co
>        539 W 14th Place
>        Chicago, IL  60607
>        (312) 491-1123
>
> They specialize in telephone and Ethernet cabling, tools, and supplies.  You
> can ask questions, too.
>
> A high quality punch-down tool costs about $70 to $100, and is a worthwhile
> investment.  Buy yourself a 1,000 ft roll of cat-6, 4-pair cable; although
> you will never use even half the roll, it is none-the-less cheapest to buy
> the big roll.  The actual punch-down blocks, etc, are cheap.  I attached a
> wooden board to the masonry wall, and then attached the blocks to the board.
>
> You will also want a good quality staple gun, and a selection of staples.
>
> The punch-down tool should have a reversible tip; where one option has a
> knife blade, and the other option has no blade.  (There are also two types
> of tips available, older style versus newer style -- you will need to choose
> one style or the other.)  You will be flipping the tip between blade versus
> no-blade as you work.  The no-blade option lets you punch down a wire that
> then continues to the next position.  A block has 25 positions.  Typically,
> you might have each incoming wire span 6 positions; so a block handles four
> wires (i.e. two pairs of wires.)  If you are just connecting one or two
> pairs, you would use a single block, if you have three or four pairs you
> might consider two blocks.  Bring the first wire to the top most position,
> letting the wire get loosely gripped by the pincers, then pull straight down
> and let it get gripped by the pincers at the next five positions below.
> Using the non-cutting side, punch down the first five positions, then flip
> the tip so you have the knife edge and punch down, this final act cuts the
> wire.  (A common error here is to put the knife side up, cutting the wire
> before it enters the pincers, instead of as it exits.)  Then take the next
> wire (the matching wire of the pair) and repeat, spanning the next six
> positions down.  Etc.
>
> It might be traditional that incoming signal goes at the right side of the
> block, and outgoing lines to your house go out the left side; or maybe it's
> the other way -- ask the guys at Graybar what the tradition is.  Anyway,
> every position consists of a horizontal row having four pincers in the row.
> These four are arranged as a pair of pairs, with the left two having
> continuity, the right two having continuity, but no continuity between the
> pairs.  You connect your incoming/outgoing wires to the pincers at the
> extreme right/left, then use a "bridge clip" to short the pairs together.
> The idea is that you have the option of not using a bridge clip, in which
> case you would use wires punched down onto the inner pincers, and thusly
> would have the option of carrying the signal to some different position.
> But you won't be doing that; just use the bridge clips to connect straight
> across, right pair with adjacent left pair.  The bridge clips envelop the
> inner pincers, shorting them together.
>
> Don't forget to buy the bridge clips.
>
> Alexander Danel
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Chicago-talk mailing list
> Chicago-talk at pm.org
> http://mail.pm.org/mailman/listinfo/chicago-talk
>

From andy at petdance.com  Fri May 16 09:14:04 2008
From: andy at petdance.com (Andy Lester)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 11:14:04 -0500
Subject: [Chicago-talk] Just enough C for open source programmers
Message-ID: <5C2253D3-432A-4B6C-9D96-31AF20E949E3@petdance.com>

On July 8th, 2008, I'll be giving a talk at the Wheaton branch of  
Polyglot Programmers.  It will be the same talk I'll be giving a few  
weeks later at OSCON: http://en.oreilly.com/oscon2008/public/schedule/detail/3050

This session will provide a high-level overview of C, aimed  
specifically at the programmer wanting to get involved in a C-based  
open source project. We?ll cover:

     * Numeric types, strings and structures

     * Memory management: the heap, the stack, and pointers

     * Using the preprocessor

     * Understanding compiler warnings

     * Memory checking with valgrind

     * How to navigate a large C-based open source project (ctags, etc)

     * Security, or, how the Bad Guys smash the stack

Although Perl 5 is written in C, I will NOT be getting into specifics  
of Perl 5 internals, so if that's what you're interested in, please  
don't be disappointed.

The full schedule of all Polyglot Programmers talks are available at http://polyglotprogrammers.com/

I hope to see y'all there.

xoxo,
Andy

--
Andy Lester => andy at petdance.com => www.petdance.com => AIM:petdance